Hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate?

Hyaluronic acid (HA) and sodium hyaluronate (SH) are widely recognized ingredients in cosmetic formulations, and they stand out for their exceptional ability to retain moisture and improve skin hydration. In fact, Hyaluronic Acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the skin, joints, and connective tissues, where it helps maintain hydration, elasticity, and structural integrity. Moreover, Sodium Hyaluronate, the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, provides similar benefits but offers enhanced stability and better skin penetration due to its smaller molecular size. For instance, sodium hyaluronate appears in HyPearls®, a granulated ingredient designed for dual skin support.

In the cosmetic industry, these ingredients frequently appear in moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and anti-aging formulations. Consequently, they boost skin hydration, plump fine lines, and improve overall skin texture. Furthermore, their powerful hydration properties make them essential components in a wide range of skincare products.

Finally, a comparison table highlights the physical and visual parameters of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) and Sodium Hyaluronate (SH). Specifically, it examines molecular weight, density, solubility in water, bulk density, color, and odor.

Parameter Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Sodium Hyaluronate (SH)
Molecular Weight 1,000 – 8,000 kDa (varies) 100 – 1,000 kDa (smaller size)
Density ~1.2 g/cm³ ~1.4 g/cm³
Solubility in Water Poorly soluble in cold water, better in warm water Highly water-soluble
Bulk Density ~0.2–0.6 g/cm³ ~0.3–0.8 g/cm³
Color White to off-white powder White to off-white powder
Odor Odorless Odorless

Clearly, sodium hyaluronate shows physical parameters similar to those of hyaluronic acid. However, the main differences appear in molecular weight and solubility in water, where sodium hyaluronate surpasses hyaluronic acid.

Benefits and challenges

Obviously, it is difficult to find a cosmetic product for skin hydration that does not contain either HA or SH. On the other hand, most products include these ingredients at concentrations up to 1%, and there appears to be a natural barrier acting as an upper concentration limit for such hydrating agents. Therefore, while clear benefits favor the use of both ingredients in cosmetic formulations, professional formulators also face several challenges. Let’s outline them below:

Benefits for hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate

  • Deep Hydration – Both HA and SH attract and retain water, helping to maintain skin moisture levels.
  • Improved Skin Texture – They enhance skin smoothness and elasticity, reducing the appearance of wrinkles.
  • Compatibility – They can be incorporated into various formulations, including gels, serums, creams, and masks.
  • Non-Irritating & Suitable for All Skin Types – Generally well-tolerated, even by sensitive skin.

Challenges

  • Concentration limits – Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate, both form polymeric network structures, in special when exposed to aqueous media. Viscosity effects turns into a gel-phase and texture of the formulation might be out of consumers’ expectation.
  • Stability Issues – Hyaluronic Acid is prone to degradation, especially in certain pH levels or when exposed to heat and oxygen.
  • Penetration Limitations – HA molecules are large and may only work on the skin’s surface, while SH provides deeper hydration.
  • Cost – High-quality, low molecular weight HA or SH can be expensive to source and formulate effectively.

Using Hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate?

Cosmetic products that favor hydration and skin moisturizing without HA or SH have become rare and almost indispensable in the industry. In comparison, Sodium Hyaluronate is more water-soluble and has a lower molecular weight, which allows for better absorption in skincare formulations. Hyaluronic Acid, on the other hand, is less soluble and primarily provides surface hydration. At the same time, both HA and SH continue to challenge formulation experts due to their gel-forming properties, which must also be factored into product cost calculations.

Expert’s opinion

Sodium Hyaluronate as it is employed in HyPearls® is more water-soluble and has a lower molecular weight, which allows for better absorption in skincare products. Hyaluronic Acid, on the other hand, is less soluble and generally used for surface hydration.

HyPearls. Hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate